Sunday, January 14, 2024

054. Madurai Sungudi

Madurai Sungudi is an exclusive textile product traditionally produced in the Madurai region of Tamil Nadu. It is generally of great demand among the women of South India. The saree is manufactured in the traditional tie or knot dying process. 

These are cotton sarees that are suited to a tropical climate and can be used for both casual and formal ware. This saree is a traditional dress of women of some communities worn during marriages. 

It is believed that the art of making the Madurai sungudi saree came into Madurai through weavers from Saurashtra who migrated during the Nayak dynasty that ruled the Madurai around the 16th century onwards.

In Saurashtra, the word 'sungudi' relates to the Sanskrit word "sunnam" meaning "round", representing the circular dots that are printed on the fabric as a prominent and special motif

The knotting process is normally undertaken by the womenfolk entails fine and intricate knots. These put in place using finger nails and a single thread for the entire saree. The perfection of the “sungudi” depends on the firmness of the knot. Once the dying process is complete and the knots are undone meticulously, such that the single thread can be reused.

The knots made on the saree are generally evenly spaced with a continuous string running amongst all the knots. Thereafter the saree is dyed with the appropriate colour. Subsequently when the knots are untied, the knotted portions remain uncoloured at tings, thus giving a unique kaleidoscopic effect to sarees. 

Traditionally the colour used are mainly vegetable dyes. And the water of the sacred River Vaigai used in the dyeing process is believed to posses the unique quality of impacting the brightness of the attractive colours used on the saree. Now a days artificial dyes like chemical, vat, Napthol and Alzarine dyes are also used.

In this kind of sarees laborious work is performed on the saree before it is dyed. Dyeing of the saree and removing the knots is the final step unlike the other kind of sarees.  It is entirely hand crafted hence the design is unique to each saree produced. 

Madurai Sungudi saree is the southern equivalent of the Jamnagari Bandhani because of the tie and dye technique employed in these weaves. However, the major difference is the raw material as only cotton is used for Madurai Sungudi. 

The fabric's traditional popular use is as a saree; the fabric is now also used to make shirts, salwars, shawls, handbags, bed sheets and pillow cases.

GI Tag Registration Date         : 12 December 2005

GI Tag Number                         : 21

Certificate Number                  : 16

Geographical Area                  : Tamil Nadu

Special Cover Release Date   : 13 August 2021

Cancellation                             : Madurai 625 001

Type                                          : GI Tag Cover

Cover Identification Number  : TN/11/2021

The cover has a small replica of Madurai Sungudi Saree. 2000 Nos of covers are issued and each cover is numbered.

Enlarged View of Illustration

Enlarged View of Cancellation

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