066. Kashmir Sozani Craft

Kashmir Sozani Craft is a fine needle-based embroidery done with silk and viscose yarn using primarily Sozani stitch, depicting motifs based on flora and fauna of Kashmir Valley and done on various textiles.

Basically the word Sozani is a Persian derivative. The word Sozani means needle and sozankari the needlework. The person who performs this craft is called the sozankar. Sozan in ancient Kashmiri language meant a wise man. if we consider the Kashmiri word Sozan as the origin of the Sozani then it means a craft performed by the wise men.

Fine Needlework on fabrics are done by a Sozankar employing predominantly the Sozani Stitch, Darn Stitch and Stem Stitch using silk and viscose yarns. Buttonhole stitch, Herring bone stitch, Chain stitch, Satin Stitch and Knot stitches are also used, though in limited proportions.

The process involves selection of the pattern and tracing of it subsequently on to the fabric surface to be embroidered. The traced pattern is first filled in with embroidery starting with individual motifs of flowers, then finished with defining the outlines and finally the continuous lines that connect these motifs. A single patch is done first and then repeated after it is approved. Typically the pattern is bound on all sides with a ‘Hashia’ border and a Kingri- a smaller running ornament.

The Embroidery is applied in the following ways:

• Borders of various widths, applied on the edges of the fabric.

• "Butis”, mostly small sized individual motifs that are repeated in several ways.

• “Jaali”, a kind of net like pattern embroidered all over the fabric in straight lines, or criss-crossed or in wave like patterns inter-spersed with floral butis. 

• “Jama”, a highly intraicate Sozani Embroidery style that is so closely filled-in with fine stitches that it barely allows any ground fabric to be visible. 

• “Kunj”, a large sized Almond motif that is placed on the corner of the fabric facing towards the centre

Sozani Embroidery has a rich colour spectrum and exquisite motifs depicting natural flora and fauna of the Kashmir Valley. Popular motifs include the Chinar leaf and Cypress tree, Almond, Grapes, Pomegranates and Cotton seeds, and flowers like the Iris, Narcissus, Lotus, Daffodil, Pansy, Lily and Rose; Geometrical themes like octagonal phanus, Dontavot and Agraphool.

Very fine Sozani work uses the Sozani stitch for outlining of the motif with a darker shade of thread while the filling up is done with the same fine Sozani stitches but in a different colour. There is no visible gap between the outline and the filling. It appears very compact and is also most expensive and therefore used on high value products like silks, pure Pashmina wool and crepes.

GI Tag Registration Date         : 27 November 2008

GI Tag Number                         : 48

Certificate Number                  : 98

Geographical Area                  : Jammu and Kashmir

Special Cover Release Date   : 17 August 2021

Cancellation                             : Srinagar 190 001

Type                                          : GI Tag Cover

Cover Identification Number  : J&K/04/2021

Enlarged View of Illustration
Top right corner depicts the logo of Kashmir Sozani Craft

Enlarged View of Cancellation

Logo of Kashmir Sozani Craft