Kandangi Sarees are hand-woven by traditionally skilled weavers of the Karaikudi region of Tamil Nadu. Kandangi Sarees are recognized by its thick, coarse cotton material which can endure the roughest washes.
Kandangi cotton saree brings to the eye, the mixture of vivid colours with geometric patterns. It is typically accompanied with a large border and it is in contrast with an already bright colour of the saree's body.
Kandangi sarees have the characteristic conventional checks and temple patterns for borders as well. The recurring pattern of checks or stripes is the most significant mark of a typical Kandangi Saree and it is this theme of checks that provides with the word 'Kandangi'.
Kandangi sarees exude brilliant colours like bright yellow, orange, red and a minimal black in the traditional pattern of stripes or checks with broad borders woven in coarse cotton. Made out of natural dyes (generally vegetable dyes), the sarees give the Karaikudi feel of earthiness.
The fine stripes and checks, horizontal and vertical, are made out of cotton yarn which is dyed into vibrant colours, the favourites being earthy hues of red, orange, brown and colours of chrome and mustard.
Traditionally the Chettinad draping style was strikingly different and was woven to suit it. It was draped without a blouse and with pleats forming on the back. The height was comparatively lesser than the current day as it used to be worn above the ankle. Keeping all these factors in mind, the Kandangi sarees were rather thick and durable.
A typical Kandangi Saree takes a full week to complete. The process of weaving starts with making warp and weft. The cotton yarn is bought by the weavers and dyed in desired colours. The dyes that are used are natural dyes and are extracted from sources like vegetables. Cotton yarns are placed on winding machine for spinning. The yarn is collected on spools. The spools are further taken for making warp on a warping machine.
Weft yarn is wound on a plastic cylinder from the hank. The weft yarn is wound as the weaving progresses. This is because wetting is done only after the order for the sarees is made, and the colours used when wetting the cloth can be changed, unlike in warping where it remains so till the end of the production of the saree.
Piecing is a process where the existing ends on the reed-heald setup is joined with the ends from the new warp. Finally the loom is loaded with warp and then the weaving starts. For the process of weaving, a fly-shuttle loom is used by the weavers of Karaikudi. The woven saree is wrapped on the wooden frame at regular intervals. Artisans use different colours of contrasting threads while weaving to create designs.
These earthy-toned drapes are preferred not just by the locals but also by women throughout the state for their absorbant and durable nature which suits the humid climate of southern India. The silk variations were reserved for special occasions, weddings and ceremonies, whereas the cotton ones were picked for everyday wear.
GI Tag Registration Date : 30 August 2019
GI Tag Number : 422
Certificate Number : 359
Geographical Area : Tamil Nadu
Special Cover Release Date : 19 August 2021
Cancellation : Karaikudi 630 001
Type : GI Tag Cover
Cover Identification Number : TN/13/2021
The cover has a small replica of Kandangi Saree. 2000 Nos of covers are issued and each cover is numbered.
Enlarged View of Illustration
Enlarged View of Cancellation
Back Side Scan of Cover
Nice information sir
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