India Post Special Covers on GI Tagged Products: 168. Muga Silk of Assam

Muga Silk of Assam is the golden-yellow silk produced by Antheraea assama species of silkworm found only in the Brahmaputra Valley of India. Muga possesses the highest tensile strength among all the natural textile fibres and is comfortable to wear in both summer and winter. Muga is also believed to have medicinal properties and is apparently used as a skin whitener.

There are three types of silkworm found in Assam, particularly mulberry, eri and muga silk. The people inhabiting the region of Assam have carried on the production of muga silk as it is called as a tradition. Based upon the historical record available, people of Assam have been using muga silk since 321 B.C. Moreover, the term ‘MUGA’ is a Asomiya term connoting the rich amber colour of the cocoon.

Image Source: sentinelassam.com

Antheraea assama species of silkworm is semi-domesticated in that the rearers collect the worms that crawl down at the end of their larval period. They are allowed to spin cocoons in the rearer's houses. These silkworms are raised outdoors.

Newly hatched worms are mounted on food plant like Som (Machilus bombysina) or Soalu (L. polyantha). They are also mounted on secondary host plants like Mezankari (L. Citrata Blume) and Dighloti (L.Salicifolia Rexb). They are put either on the east or north side of the trees to get sufficient sunshine by the help of bamboo poles.

The muga silkworm gives five broods a year corresponding to the different seasons, “katiya” (autumn crop),”jarua” (winter crop), “jethua” (summer crop), “aherua” (early monsoon crop), and bhadia (late monsoon crop). The bulk of the cocoons come from the autumn crop that is considered more prolific than other crops.

Muga is popular for its natural colour of spun gold, glossy texture and durability. The gold colour and shine of a muga textile increases with every wash, in sharp contrast to the natural law of decay of shine in fabrics with time.

Muga Silk Mekhela-Chadar is a traditional dress for Assamese women. Mekhela is a loin cloth and Chadar is a wrapper cloth. Muga Silk saree and Muga Silk plain fabric of different sizes are also produced for making garments, furnishing materials and decorative items.