Chendamangalam Dhoties and Set Mundu are famous traditional outfit of Kerala weaved from Chendamangalam Village, which is situated 30 km from Ernakulam town. Chendamangalam Dhoties, Set Mundu and other traditional products are socio-culturally associated with the people of Kerala especially to the Cochin region due to its confluence with the religious and other festivities of this region.
The major items manufactured in the Chendamangalam cluster are Doube Dhoti (also know as Double Veshti or Double Mundu), Single Dhoti (or Single Vesthi or Single Mundu), Set Mundu (Matching set or Mumdum Neriyathum or Mundu and Neriyathu) and Grey Saree (Kerala Saree or Set Saree).
Image Credit: swadeshi.org
Dhoti is a piece of bleached or unbleached cloth which is worn round the loins to cover the lower part of the body. Single Dhoti is a single layer of cloth with twisted yarn. Double Dhoti is folded to get two layers of cloth with single yarn. Single Dhoti or Double dhoti along with shirt is common attire of the adult male in Kerala.
Women folk of Kerala traditionally wear Set Mundu. It is combination of Dhoti for covering the lower part of the body and Neriyathu or Kavani to wrap around the upper portion of the body like Duppata. One end of the Neriyathu is tucked inside the petticoat and the remaining long end is worn across the front torso.
Initially, Chendamangalam weaving was established to meet the demands of the Paliam family, who served as the former prime minister of the Kingdom of Cochin. The royal family's female members used to display their class and dignity by donning clothing made of Chendamangalam handlooms, particularly Neriyathu, Kasavu Dhoti, and Kasavu Sarees. Men used to dress in dhotis, which are simple white pieces of fine muslin.
The basic raw material is cotton yarn. Besides this golden zari, half-fine zari and coloured yarn (dyed yarn) is also used for border and cross borders of the Dhoties and Neriyathu and for butta designs in the Neriyathu. Presently manufacturing is spread over Parur, Kochi, Kanayannur and Aluva taluks of the Ernakulam district of Kerala.
Vat Dyes are preferred due to its excellent colour fastness properties. In Chendamangalam cluster, same count of yarn is used in the warp as well as in the weft for a particular product. Sizing with starch material is also done with twice, one after the other. A special brush with bristles made-up of coir fibre is used to brush the yarn during the process of sizing.
Frame looms are the most widely used handlooms in Chendamangalam cluster and they are known as Virippu Thari due to the spread of the warp sheet. Another speciality of the weaving in this cluster is the ‘Puliyilakkara’ cross border weave. The puliyilakara (tamarind leaf border), a thin black line that runs parallel to the sari’s selvedge, distinguishes the saree from the rest.
GI Tag Registration Date : 06 January 2012
GI Tag Number : 225
Certificate Number : 166
Geographical Area : Kerala
Special Cover Release Date : 12 October 2021
Cancellation : Chendamangalam 683 512
Type : GI Tag Cover
Cover Identification Number : KL-31/2021
Enlarged View of Illustration
Enlarged View of Cancellation
Back Side Scan
No comments:
Post a Comment