205. Santipore Saree

Santipore Saree is a special quality of saree of special yarn with special design produced at Santipur located in the District of Nadia, West Bengal. Santipore Saree is famous for the novelty of designs, hand spinning method with extra weft, different colour patterns and the thin finesse of the fabric.

Speciality of Santipore Saree is that it is marketed in a typical traditional folded form known as “ Guti Bhanj ”. Santipore Saree in its present form may be defined as the Saree which is traditionally woven in Fly Shuttle Frame/Pit Looms using 80s-100s cotton yarn in wrap and weft with plain border and/or border with extra warp jacquard designs.

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Motifs generally used are of different characteristics viz. floral, abstract, geometrical, instrumental motifs, special motifs of different historical backgrounds, temples and other natural motifs with typical colour pattern in pallu. Body of the fabric may be plain or decorated with “ Buti ” using Extra Warp/ Weft with or without the help of jacquard.

Ten different types of products were woven depending on the complexity of the patterns woven and the number of colours of threads used. These were – sada, rangeen, dure (ten different coloured threads were used), sarbasundari, kharkemoti, sinduri, chaurangi, tashkhupi, choukhupi, ayanakhupi etc.

The edges or paras of the saris also had variety – chandmama, taj, tajkalka, choukalka, phuljhumka, parijaat, dhakai, karnish, tekka etc.

Santipore Saree have a unique quality of doubling the thread count through reed (sana) - this causes a unique reed mark to form in the saree. The number of threads can be increased anywhere between 2-9 threads, with a higher thread count implying a softer and glossier finish. Santipore sarees maintain a 100x100 thread value; this thread value is rare in other places.

Weavers in Santipur discourage removal of reed mark from their products during the process of putting finishing touches in them; this is the essential difference between Fulia and Santipore sarees and also creates a separate niche in the market for Santipore sarees.

One of the several specialties of Santipuri is the Nilambari Saree, the word ‘ nilambari ’ literally meaning blue sky referring to the saree's deep navy-blue colour. The ‘pallu’ (the falling edge of the saree) is decorated with stripes of varying thickness. These stripes, called ‘sajanshoi ’ have colours that are complementary to those used on the borders. Some sarees even include silver coloured starry patterns embroidered on the border, giving it an appearance of a night sky.

The handloom weavers of Santipur still today work without any electrical equipment and their main secret lies in the manner in which they spread out the threads after the textile is made, which gives it the characteristic identity. It is indeed for this reason that these sarees have an exceedingly smooth texture and lend a touch of sophistication to the wearer. 

GI Tag Registration Date         : 04 September 2009

GI Tag Number                         : 138

Certificate Number                  : 116

Geographical Area                  : West Bengal

Special Cover Release Date   : 09 November 2021

Cancellation                             : Kolkata 700 012

Type                                          : GI Tag Cover

Cover Identification Number  : WB/24/2021

This cover had a replica of Sanitpore Saree attached to it.

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