Tuesday, July 2, 2024

226. Baluchari Saree

Baluchari Saree is an exquisite silk saree of West Bengal origin, produced by highly skilled designers and weavers having generations of experience in draw-boy-loom. It hails originally from a place of same name in Murshidabad District. 

Baluchari Sarees are what dreams are made of design in silk & woven with contrasting colours with detailed figures, motifs, flowers or scenes from mythology. These sarees with their colours and alluring designs are prized possessions of most Bengali woman and are worn for special occasions & religious ceremonies.

The name is derived from the word ‘ Baluchar ’ an area comprising several villages namely Belepur, Ranasagar, Baligram, Baghdhara, Dubrokhali, Amuipara. Around the middle of 16th century, a group of experienced weavers migrated from Varanasi and settled in Baluchar village. They weaved beautiful designs on silk fabrics exclusively patronised by Nawabs. 

With abolition of Nawab rule in Bengal, Baluchari sarees perished during the British rule. After Independence, around 1956 with efforts of Shri Subho Tagor and Smt. Kamala Devi Chattopadhyay it got its revival. The first weaver and designer of the famous Baluchari Saree are Gora Chand Disai and Akshay Kumar Das respectively.

Image credit: mollisarts.com

Baluchari sarees are often regarded as Pooja Sarees by local women, who wear them especially during traditional festivals, marriages, auspicious functions and other traditional celebrations. These sarees are made of pure silk / pure tussar or a combination of these two along with Zari works. These are hand woven.

Body of the Baluchari saree has many designs woven into it. The designs, its orientation and layout are given by the master weaver. These sarees have rich brocaded gold border. The pallu also has elaborate design. The border and pallu have nice and more zari works compared to the body. 

The border and the body of the saree are woven in traditional dramatic colours i.e., the colour are mostly bright and / or dark vibrant colour. The saree gives a shiny appearance. The woven designs contain Flora and/or Fauna in it. The volume and use of the floral designs are more when compared to the design of fauna.

Two varieties of silk threads – Bangalore and Bengali varieties are used for production of these sarees. Bangalore variety is used in warp and Bengal variety used in Weft. Weaving of Baluchari Saree involved operating two high capacity Jacquard – one for ground designing and other for “Anchal” or “Pallu” designing and ground weaving with treadle.

In the design part, complex motifs of “Nawabs” and “Begums” in relaxing or commanding pose (Persian style) are seen. Another important character of Baluchari motif is that the motifs are presented sidewise i.e. in a side view and not face-to-face. And all the motifs do not change their vertical direction and are placed in the same direction.

Some of the varieties of Baluchari Saree are Naksha Paar (Designed Border), Chhoto Anchol (Small Pallu), Mina Baluchari (extra warp used for border) and Swarnachari

Baluchari of current days basically consists of the design collected from different mythologies or epics like the Puranas, the Ramayana or the Mahabharata in a narrative way. The entire motif at a particular saree in combination narrates a specific story.

GI Tag Registration Date         : 06 January 2012

GI Tag Number                         : 173

Certificate Number                  : 159

Geographical Area                  : West Bengal

Special Cover Release Date   : 29 November 2021

Cancellation                             : Bankura 722 101

Type                                          : GI Tag Cover

Cover Identification Number  : WB/30/2021

Enlarged View of Illustration

Enlarged View of Cancellation

Back Side Scan

India Post has also issued a commemorative stamp related to Baluchari Saree, details of the same is furnished below

Handlooms of India
Geographical Indication Registered Handloom Products
Baluchari Saree
Commemorative Postage Stamp
Date of Issue : 07-Aug-2018

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