Udupi Sarees are hank yarn dyed (or coloured) and hand-woven Saree, a traditional product manufactured in the Dakshina Kannada and Udupi districts of Karnataka. Udupi Sarees are socio-culturally associated with the people of Karnataka especially to the southern part of the coastal region due to its confluence with the religious and other festivities of these regions.
Udupi Sarees are produced either with check design in the body with solid border or Plain Saree with Butta designs. The traditional Udupi Sarees are woven with coloured cotton yarn (dyed yarn) of finer counts along with coloured art-silk yarn and half fine zari.
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The dye which is predominantly used for dyeing the yarn meant for Udupi Saree is Vat dyes. The Vat dyes are preferred due to its excellent colour fastness property. The Udupi Sarees are famous for its luster and colour fastness due to the best dyeing quality and techniques.
In almost all the cases, the yarn for pallav portion of the saree is dyed in dark shade. The extra weft designs are woven with attractive colours to get more attraction and enrichment of saree pallav by using one type of tie & dye method.
Tie and dye method are applied while preparing the warp. Firstly, entire warp of the saree is dyed with one colour and the yarn for pallav with another colour (matching to the body) is applied and the rest of the warp yarn is tied using rubber tubes.
Sizing is a process by which a natural starch solution is applied to warps to strengthen the yarn in order to protect it from abrasion in the healds and reeds of the loom. In these districts, unlike other handloom centres, the method of ‘loom sizing’ is practiced.
Here the sizing material is applied directly to the yarn while the weaving is in progress. That is, the sizing material is applied to that portion of the warp yarn, which is about to pass through the healds and reeds while weaving. Hence, the sizing is normally carried out in the weaving shed itself.
Natural materials such as Rice or Maize form the important ingredients of the sizing material, which is boiled and diluted as per the climatic conditions and requirement. A special brush with bristles made from the parts of a typical palm tree is used to brush the yarn during the process of sizing.
The looms used for weaving Udupi Sarees are frame looms known as Malabar looms. The Malabar looms are very strong looms with fly shuttles. Moreover, it is suitable for sarees with plain border, with extra warp and cross border designs.
Rampant usage of modern or improved devices such as lattice dobby and jacquard for making intricate designs using dyed yarn in the border, cross-border, pallav (or Pallu) and also for buttas in the body is prevalent in this cluster.
The uniqueness of the saree is its contrast colour in pallav and border portions as compared to the colour of body portion.- i.e. one colour in pallav and border and another colour in the body. In order to get this specification, the Cut border technique is used.
In this technique, three shuttles are used i.e. two shuttles for the borders and pallav and one shuttle for body portion. In this technique the weft yarn of the body and the saree is inserted across the body and the border. The border is then woven with the help of the two shuttles kept for weaving the border. Further, single yarn is used for weaving the body and double yarn is used to weave the border.
GI Tag Registration Date : 31 March 2016
GI Tag Number : 224
Certificate Number : 253
Geographical Area : Karnataka
Special Cover Release Date : 25 March 2022
Cancellation : Udupi 576 101
Type : GI Tag Cover
Cover Identification Number : KTK/029/2022
Each cover is numbered.
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