Guledgudd Khana is a traditional fabric for Choli or Blouse which compliments the Ilkal saris, as this combination is widely used not only in the northern part of Karnataka but the Marathawada and Vidarbha regions of Maharashtra also.
Be it a marriage or any other big or small function or any other celebration or ceremony, the combination of Ilkal Saris and Guledgudd Khana are being used widely. While the aged women wear the Ilkal Saris and Guledgudd Khana in their traditional Maharashtrian style, the younger generation wears it in their modern fashionable style.
There is no definite historical evidence as to when the handloom weaving industry started at Ilkal and Guledgudd. But according to the popular belief and circumstances, it might have been started in the 8th century when the Chalukya Dynasty was in power in this region.
Image credit: silkal.in
The unique designs produced by using dyed yarns represent the traditions followed by people of some regions of Karnataka and Maharashtra states. The motives used for the designs in Guledgudd cluster are extracted from nature, ancient stone sculptures of Badami and from the Hindu Mythology. Except these traditional designs no other designs are accepted by the users of Khana.
Most of the designs of the Guledgudd Khana are replicates of the
- Suryanarayana, the face of the Sun God
- Siddeswar Mukuta, the face of Siddeswar God
- Theru, the Chariot
- Ane Hejje, the footsteps of elephant
- Tulsi Pan, the Tulsi leaf
- Sooji Mallige, a fragrance giving flower etc.
Guledgudd Khana can be weaved using both handlooms and power looms. The handlooms are either pit or frame looms. The power looms are mainly plain looms with dobby attachments. The basic raw material of the cluster is Silk and Art Silk (Viscose) and Cotton yarn, procured in the form of hank.
All the preparatory activities such as yarn winding, twisting, dyeing etc. are carried out in preparatory houses and then supplied to weavers in the form of warp and weft. The ‘Khana’ merchants hire small weavers and supply the necessary materials for weaving. The weavers’ carries out the weaving of the fabric and hand it over to Khana merchant.
The dye which is predominantly used for dyeing the yarn meant for Guledgudd Khana is Indigo dyes. The dyeing of cotton carried out by the Guledgudd artisans of Khana manufacturing is unique. The dyeing of cotton with Indigo dyes is carried out in special earthen pots/copper vats which are buried in the ground. This will enable the dyer to maintain the required temperature conditions.
The warp yarn from warping machine is taken to sizing process. This process is carried out in the open and known as street sizing. Sizing paste (Starch and a gummy substance which is retrieved from a tree called “Jali”) is applied on to the yarns by using a hand brush and dried in the sun light. Natural materials are used for sizing the yarn.
The small design motifs produced by using extra threads allow the fabric to use both sides and hence they are reversible. The extra thread design motifs produced on open ground structure make the fabric air permeable and breathable. Therefore these fabrics are cool and hence most preferred for summer wear.
GI Tag Registration Date : 31 March 2016
GI Tag Number : 210
Certificate Number : 252
Geographical Area : Karnataka
Special Cover Release Date : 28 July 2022
Cancellation : Guledgudd 587 203
Type : GI Tag Cover
Cover Identification Number : KTK/028/2022
Enlarged View of Illustration
Enlarged View of Cancellation
Back Side Scan
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