Applique (Khatwa) work of Bihar an ancient craft of patchwork with used waste pieces of cloth, practiced mainly by women in Sitamarhi and Madhubani districts of Bihar. Traditionally it is done with white cloth on bright backgrounds like red or orange. So fine was the work that, in the past, the articles produced were used by kings, emperors, and the nobility.
Today this Appliqué work is done for their personal garments or for commercial purpose. The colours range from scarlet, orange, and yellow, to pale green, mauve, and white. In garments like caps and blouses, embroidery is combined with appliqué.
Most of the raw materials are produced on cream markeen fabric and occasionally in other coloured shades of casement fabric. Coloured handloom is used for saris, kurtas, and dupattas, and sometimes tussar silk is used in making stoles and jackets.
The motifs include human figures, trees, flowers, animals, and birds. Circular cut-work is for the central motifs and quarter-circles are used for the corners. The background colour and the foreground appliqué motifs are cleverly arranged to give the design an entirely new dimension.
A master chart of the appliqué designs, called awalkhana, is prepared on the cloth before the work is executed. First outline of the design is traced or drawn directly onto the cloth. Then the coloured cloth is also outlined and cut to the desired shape and size and stitched on the base cloth. Stories and compositions are prepared by the women who also choose their own colours and themes.
The stitching in Khatwa cloth is a practical way of connecting three or four layers of cloth together. The balance between what stitches do-patch, repair, connect and hold layers together and what the stitches can become narrative elements is a key to understanding the artistic expression of the women in Bihar
The applique and patchwork of Bihar is commonly found on wall hangings, Shamianas (decorative tents and canopies that are used on festive occasions, and on religious and social ceremonies), and even on saris, dupattas, cushion covers, table cloths, curtains, bedspreads, bolster coverts etc.
The Khatwa craftswomen also have used hand woven silk and naturally dyed cloth. The two principal items of this craft continue to be used today as modern utility items such as cushion covers, curtains, tea cozies, table-cloths, curtains, blouse pieces and sari borders.
The canopies are made of thick background materials, usually red or orange, appliquéd with geometric patterns cut from thin white cloth. The walls of the tents bear designs of flowers, birds and trees. The vibrant colors used in the appliqué reflect the joyous mood of the revelers.
GI Tag Registration Date : 23 November 2007
GI Tag Number : 73
Certificate Number : 44
Geographical Area : Bihar
Special Cover Release Date : 26 August 2021
Cancellation : Madhubani 847 211
Type : GI Tag Cover
Cover Identification Number : BH-09/August,2021
Enlarged View of Illustration
Interestingly the back side cover description describes about Applique drawing work - a special type of Rangoli prepared during Mithila Deity Worship. However GI Tag is issued for Applique Patch Work.
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