Arani silk saree is one of the oldest, traditionally crafted styles of silk sarees worn in the state of Tamil Nadu. Arani silk are woven with intricate designs, twisted yarn, specialized weaving in border designs and extensive zari work. These sarees are as gorgeous as Kanchipuram silk, but famous for its lighter weight and make wonderful drapes for casual evenings and formal work wear .
Until 1995, only small motifs or buttas were created on traditional Arani silk sarees using a technique called “Jungu” or “Adai”. Later Jacquards were introduced to weave wide varieties of contemporary and trendy designs. Now there are three different varieties of Arani Silk. They are
Dobby Variety - traditionally woven sarees using Dobby with single thread warp (yarn running horizontally) and single thread weft (yarn running vertically). The border has thin line of Zari (gold thread). The saree weighs about 300 grams.
Korvai Variety – in this variety the body and border part of the saree are interlaced, to give solid colour border. It is known as contrast weaving (Korvai). The body and border of the saree has different colours. Again single warps were used for these sarees. The weight about 450 to 600 gms. This type can be produced with border on one side or Double side of the silk sarees.
Self Border Variety - Sarees woven either with one side or double side border, but without interlacing (korvai) the body and border is known as self border Saree. This may be woven either with single warp or double warp with single weft or multiples up to 3 strands.
Mulberry silk is twisted to suit the preparation of Arani silk sarees and transferred into warp and weft. Pure silver Zari coated with Gold is used as the other raw material.
Warp and weft raw silk contains silk gum (sericin) which constitutes about 20% to 30% of its total weight. Unless the gum is completely removed, silk does not exhibit its characteristic luster, smoothness as well as softness and tends to dye unevenly.
The common method of removing gum from raw silk is to treat it in a hot solution of soap. The de-gummed silk is dyed with required colour. To increase the colour fastness the dyed silk is dipped in Acetic Acid mixed water and let to dry.
The warp, which is dyed and furnished for production, before mounting to a loom, is subjected to warp preparation by weavers. The warp is dipped in rice kanji mixed with water (porridge) and let to dry to season them to endure the weaving and rolled into warp cylinder.
The warp, which was prepared and rolled in the cylinder, is joined with the warp yarns already left after weaving in the reed, by matching each filament.
There are two types of looms in the Arani area - Pit Looms and Frame Looms. Arani dobby sarees are produced in the Pit looms. Korvai one side and double side with zari and silk border sarees are woven in the Frame looms, by utilizing jacquard boxes.
GI Tag Registration Date : 28 March 2008
GI Tag Number : 92
Certificate Number : 61
Geographical Area : Tamil Nadu
Special Cover Release Date : 26 August 2021
Cancellation : Arni 632 301
Type : GI Tag Cover
Cover Identification Number : TN/20/2021
The cover has a small replica of Arani Silk Border along the length. 2000 Nos of covers are issued and each cover is numbered.
Enlarged View of Illustration
Enlarged View of Cancellation
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