Chakhesang shawl is named after the tribe ‘Chakhesang’ from Phek, Kohima and Dimapur District in State of Nagaland. Most of the shawls made and used by the Chakhesang tribe are not only attractive in their appearance but also carry certain social significance.
The attire in particular of the Chakhesang and every other tribe in Nagaland is unique. Each one is distinctive in terms of colours, patterns, general dress and weaving style. The most common attire for men are Kilts while women are often seen dressed in wrap-around skirts. However, the most prominent piece of dressing of the Chakhesang tribe are the Shawls.
The attractive patterns of Chakhesang shawl display the intricate weaving style and exquisite craftsmanship of these weavers. The tradition of weaving shawls have been passed down from mother to daughter since time immemorial.
The Chakhesang tribe is known to weave shawls not only from cotton, but also from different unconventional materials like Nettle plant, Deccan jute and bark of Debrege tree. Fibre obtained from such plants is stripped, dried, further sorted and made ready to be spun with a hand-spindle. Each yarn is unique with different patterns and thickness of fibre.
The dyeing of the shawls is also done through the use of natural material that is collected from forest. The knowledge of the barks and roots their processing to obtain ‘fast dyes’ and the colours obtained from these products are unique and inherent to Chakhesang tribe.
The Chakhesang people use fundamental colours like dark blue (leaves of the plant Strobilanthes Flaccidifolius), black (by boiling walnut and mixing clay), red and sometimes yellow (fruit portion of a plant named Medumeluobo or yellow flowers of a plant called Pachu). Dyed yarn is then hand woven in the Naga loom, a type of tension loom.
Various types of shawls mark important events of the Chakhesang tribe like feasts which invoke peace and reconciliation, blessings passed by parents upon their son, ceremony for paddy yield, etc. The motifs seen on the Chakhesang shawls are symbolic of various characteristics of its people such as beauty, prosperity, happiness, contentment, etc. Some of the designs are
Thüpikhü/Thsüketsüra/Hapidasa shawl, which carries the highest honour of the wearer and symbolizes that the wearer is highly prosperous and generous.
Rira (Rira Chakhesang Warrior shawl): This shawl is worn by man of status. This shawl has a red background color with black bands on it.
Rura This is the feminine version of Rira, however, it differs from the latter in some respects. Firstly, it is predominantly white.
Samakhü/Chutsüra/Metisa: This shawl is worn by both men and women; especially mediators of disputes, men of high esteem. It was also worn at funerals and by ritual performers during exorcism of haunted places
Bachi/Rashe&Müyhonie/Nunha/MürhoTimuni A colorful set of attire worn by young girls during festivals is a ‘must wear’ for young and single women at festivals
GI Tag Registration Date : 24 October 2017
GI Tag Number : 542
Certificate Number : 301
Geographical Area : Nagaland
Special Cover Release Date : 28 August 2021
Cancellation : Kohima 791 001
Type : GI Tag Cover
Cover Identification Number : NE/04/2021-22
Enlarged View of Illustration
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