Paithani sarees and fabric are traditionally a part of the trousseau of every Maharashtrian bride. This is a hand woven silk saree with a rich ornamental Zari (gold thread) Pallav and border. The weavers of Paithani Sarees & Fabrics are mainly in Paithan Taluka (Tahasil) of Aurangabad District and Yeola Taluka (Tahasil) of Nashik District of Maharashtra, India
The art of Paithan is more than 2000 years old, developed in the then splendid city of Pratishthan ruled by the legendary Satavahanas ruler Shalivahana. In the far past it had been an international trade centre for silk and zari. Paithan was the capital of the Satavahanas dynasty (200 B.C.) and used to export cotton and silks to the great Roman Empire.
Paithani saree is characterised by borders of an oblique square design and a pallu with a peacock design. The design framework is linear and exquisite, enamelled floral birds especially the peacock and parrot / maina forms are woven in gold on the Pallav and Border.
The back and face of the saree is very similar as it is woven in tapestry method. The jari used in the saree is on silk thread with twisted silver coated with gold. Sometimes cotton thread with twisted zari is used.
In the Pallu of such sarees, certain motifs are very commonly found. Some of them are ‘Asawali’, ‘Panja’ (a flower in a geometrical shape), ‘Muthada’ (a geometrical shape), and ‘Mor’ (peacock). Paithani sarees are woven in a number of colours. The very delicate colours of the Paithani silk sarees give it a unique touch, these colours can be pure or be created using a blend of different coloured yarns.
A special feature of Paithani is that it is woven without the assistance of a mechanical contrivance like a jacquard or Jala. Skilled weavers count the threads of the wrap for each part of the design and using tiny cloth Pirns or “Tillies” the weft is interlocked the silk or gold yarn on the weft with them.
One of the unique features of the Paithani saree is the design which is woven on its border. This design is woven exactly similar on the both sides (borders) of the Paithani saree. This is the distinguishing skill and artistic knowledge of the weavers.
Paithani sarees are made using three different styles of weaving. They are
- Fly shuttle weaving (“Ek-Dhoti” in local languate) - weaving of body and border is done with one shuttle. Shuttle is flied from one shuttle box to other shuttle box through shade.
- Throw shuttle weaving (“Theen-Dhoti” Or “Kadial” in local language) - one shuttle is used for body while 2 shuttles are used for border at both the sides. Shuttle boxes are not used as shuttle is not flied. In this process thread of border is interlocked with thread of body. That is known as “Kadi” i.e. chain hence it is called as “Kadial”.
- Cut shuttle weaving - In this system no shuttle box is used. Dobby or jacquard is also not used. Weaving of border is done manually. These are called as Paithani Brocade sarees. They are known as per their design i.e. when there is a design of parrot then it is called Muniya brocade, peacock designed as Moar brocade and so on.
A range of products are being produced by the Paithani weavers apart from sarees like stoles, napkin, bed sheet, pillow cover, cushion cover, door screen, wall hangings, Ladies Dress Material(LDM) and table cloth etc.
GI Tag Registration Date : 03 September 2010
GI Tag Number : 150 & 153
Certificate Number : 130
Geographical Area : Maharashtra
Special Cover Release Date : 17 September 2021
Cancellation : Yeola 423 401
Type : GI Tag Cover
Cover Identification Number : MH/30/2021
Enlarged View of Illustration
Enlarged View of Cancellation
Back Side Scan
India post has also issued other special covers on Paithani Silks and Fabrics details of the same is furnished below. (Not an exhaustive list, but only items from my collection)
Special Cover on Paithani Sarees and Fabrics with replica on Paithani Saree
All the covers are numbered. Issued on 11 December 2013 and Cancelled at Pune 411 001
Back Side Scan of Cover
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