Monday, April 15, 2024

148. Moirang Phee

Moirang Phee is a name of fabric originated from the Moirang and the design pattern of pronged teeth of the “Pakhangba”, the Pythonic God of the Manipur mythology called “Moirang Pheejin” is woven along the longitudinal border of the fabric.

The name of this Moirang Phee fabric was also known as Yarongphi in local name which mean; ya = tooth, rong = long = longba = pronged and Phee = cloth. The teeth of Pakhangba pointed upward and when arranged in a regular and uniform series, have appealing touch in the aesthetic perception of the people. 

Image credit: sajja.co.in

According to the text of manuscript “Loiyumba Silyen”, King Meidingu Loiyumba (1074-1122 AD) distributed the work of weaving of this kind of fabric ‘Yarongphi’ to the family of “Thongakpam Clan”. Later on, the fabric was the textile item which the Moirang paid as annual tribute to the Meitei Kings  during the monarchical period in Manipur.

Any colour of fabric of chaddar or half saree or stole woven with Moirang Pheejin will become the Moirang Phee.  It is possible to weave only handloom, either Loin Loom, Throw shuttle or Fly Shuttle Loom. Two throw shuttles are used for producing a complete fabric of Moirang Phee, one for the design and another for the main body.

Weaving from early period, used mainly the fibres extracted from “Lashing” (Cotton ball) and “Kabrang” (Mulberry cocoon) and also extracted from the bark of a kind of tree called “Santhak” (Urtica sp.). The local fibre was spun into thread and dyed locally with the plants, bark, plants, etc available locally.

The designs are woven in different odd steps elongating towards the middle of the fabric parallel to weft threads. The elongated part are taken on odd numbers as 3 (three) steps, 5 (five) steps, 7 (seven) steps, 9 (nine) steps, 11 (eleven) steps and so on. The odd steps are the extended portion of weft threads from the margin of the selvedge of the fabric.

In saree, the design are woven in two sizes, smaller for blouse and larger for main body of the saree. The Moirang Phee fabric is also used in the following items: Inaphee (chaddar), Phanek (sarong/ladies’ lungies), Dhoti, Girls’ skirts and a model design for school uniform. The Design is woven in all the luxurious local cloths which are used during different occasions related to marriage, festival, public function, ritual, etc.

GI Tag Registration Date         : 31 March 2014

GI Tag Number                         : 373

Certificate Number                  : 213

Geographical Area                  : Manipur

Special Cover Release Date   : 26 September 2021

Cancellation                             : Imphal 795 001

Type                                          : GI Tag Cover

Cover Identification Number  : NE/14/2021-22

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Enlarged View of Cancellation

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