Thursday, April 18, 2024

151. Banaras Brocades and Sarees

Banaras Brocades and Sarees is a symbol of grandeur, elegance and nobility, keeping with the name of the holy city of Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh. These sarees are among the finest sarees in India and are known for their gold and silver brocade or zari, fine silk and opulent embroidery. 

Brocades refer to those textiles where in, patterns are created in weaving by transfixing or thrusting the pattern thread between the warp. Normally in weaving, the weft thread passes over and under the warp thread regularly. But in brocade designs special threads are transfixed in between skipping the passage of the regular weft over a certain number of warp threads (depending upon the pattern) and by regularizing the skipping by means of pre-arranged heddles for each type of patterning. 

Image Credit : www.artsandculture.google.com

Traditional Banaras brocades can be broadly classified as 

  • Zari Brocades - the patterning is in zari or gold/silver thread.
  • Amru Brocades - patterning is in silk
  • Abrawans - the ground material is a transparent muslin silk or organza, with a zari and/or silk thread patterning.

Banaras weavers are also equally famous for the intricate and delicate sarees. The Saree segment typically consists of two sub-segments. 

  • Satin-based work (largely Karnataka yarn) concentrated in North Varanasi, Badi Bazar, Alaypura, Pilikothi 
  • Organza type work (largely Chinese yarn) visible in South Varanasi e.g. Madanpura

Some of the most famous varieties of Banaras sarees are Banaras Silk Jamdanis, Banaras Jangla Saree, Banaras Jamwar Tanchoi Saree, Banaras Tissue Saree, Banaras Cutwork Saree and Banaras Butidaar Saree. The sarees are made of finely woven silk and are decorated with intricate design. 

Image Credit : www.odopup.in

The special characteristics of these sarees are their Mughal inspired designs such as intricate intertwining floral and foliate motifs. It is also known for its gold work, compact weaving, figures with small details, metallic visual effects, pallus, jal (a net like pattern), and mina work. 

Among the different varieties of sarees produced in the centres, sarees are made of silk warp and silk weft, on plain/satin ground base, brocaded with extra weft patterns in different layouts introducing Buties, Bells, Creepers, Buttas in ground, border and anchal for getting glamourous appearance

In order to cater to the need of the buyers, the weavers of the cluster are also producing home furnishing, silk dhotis, stole, scarf, muffler, mats, dress material, wall hanging, made ups like curtain, cushion cover, table cover, napkins, runners, etc

GI Tag Registration Date         : 04 September 2009

GI Tag Number                         : 99

Certificate Number                  : 110

Geographical Area                  : Uttar Pradesh

Special Cover Release Date   : 29 September 2021

Cancellation                             : Varanasi 221 001

Type                                          : GI Tag - ODOP Cover

Cover Identification Number  : UP/93/2021

This cover is primarily issued as part of promotion for UP State One District One Product initiative. However it is also a GI Tagged Product with GI Tag details on back side of the cover. 

Enlarged View of Illustration

Enlarged View of Cancellation

Back Side Scan

India post has also issued few other special covers on Banaras Brocades and Sarees, details of the same is furnished below. (Not an exhaustive list, but only items from my collection)

Special cover issued on 16 January 2021 cancelled at Varanasi - 221 001

India post has also issued few postage stamps on Banaras Brocades and Silk Sarees, details of the same is furnished below.

Postage Stamp Issued on 10 December 2009

Traditional Indian Textiles

Mixed Sheetlet - Traditional Indian Textiles

Miniature Sheet - Traditional Indian Textiles


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