Mizo Puanchei is the most colourful and popular among the Mizo Puan and it is an essential possession for every Mizo Women. It is wrapped around the waist by tucking in at the waist to fasten it, covering the lower part of the body. It is an important item in their marriage outfit, and the most commonly used costume in their festive dances and official ceremonies.
Mizo Puanchei is normally 65” in length and 45” in breadth. The ground fabric of Mizo Puanchei is warp-faced plain weave using a higher density of warp yarns than the weft yarns. Puan is the name given by the Mizo to the cloth or the fabric which is woven out of the loom. The traditional loom use by the Mizo is the loin-loom.
Unlike the other Puan, Mizo Puanchei is woven in three pieces with the middle being the narrowest, measuring about 12” in width, and the other two pieces of about 17” in width. Many traditional designs are incorporated to form an elaborate textile in Mizo Puanchei.
Image credit : mizoculture.mizoram.gov.in
The design of the ground fabric is taken from Puanlaisen, a Puan is which a prominent deep red stripe is running horizontally in the middle along the length of the Puan. The middle piece has two dominating red stripes of 2” wide running in the middle, separated by an inch wide of white stripe with ‘Halkha’ pattern motif work on it.
Next to each of the red stripe runs an inch wide deep green stripe separate by thin yellow lines. Next to each green stripe, an inch wide white stripe filled with ‘Disul’ (Di refers to a species of grass and sul is a term used for grass brushed against by passers-by which bends to the direction in which they have been brushed against) pattern motif is seen. On the extreme ends of the middle piece run 2” wide black stripe.
The two pieces which are on either side of the middle piece are exactly similar, consisting of stripes of colours like red, blue, yellow, green, black and white similar to that of Puanlaisen. A red stripe of 4.5” wide is placed at the edge, followed by stripes of green, yellow, blue and red colour, each stripe of 1 cm wide.
Next to this is 2 cm wide black stripe followed by two 3.5” white stripes. In between these two white stripes are seen stripes of black, green and red. These pieces are sewn on either side of the middle piece.
Mizo Puanchei is characterised by the presence of two 2.5” wide black woollen bands (Hruih), breadth wise, dividing the Puan into three parts. Hruih is a compactly woven weft-rib weave where none of the coloured yarns on the warp are allowed to make their appearance against the woollen band.
Besides these two woollen bands, 7 deep red woollen bands, each of about an inch wide are also woven breadth wise with similar compactness on the two edges of the Puan. In between these red woollen bands, a number of thin lines of green, yellow, blue and pink are seen.
The stripes run breadth wise making right angles with the stripes along the length. Also, in between these stripes, ‘Lenbuangthuam’ (design based on the Lenbuang tree. Lenbuang - name of a tree and thuam - junction with two or more paths.) and ‘Sakeizangzia’ (design is taken from the stripes of a tiger’s back (Sakei-Tiger, Zang-Back, Zia-Pattern) pattern motifs in different colours are present, thereby producing an intricate, colourful textile.
Other designs/motifs are not allowed to be incorporated. The above mentioned designs should also be property incorporated where required and without any modifications. Mizo Puanchei is very popular because of its colourful, intricate and unique designs. It is a coveted possession of every Mizo lady.
Mizo Puanchei is worn by women during celebration of certain traditional festival like Chapchar Kut and by women dancers of the famous traditional bamboo namely Cheraw. Nowadays, Mizo Puanchei is usually worn by Mizo women in their wedding day and on the wedding day of their daughters, sisters and nearby relatives, and it depicts that those wearing Mizo Puanchei are close relatives to the bride.
GI Tag Registration Date : 14 August 2019
GI Tag Number : 583
Certificate Number : 352
Geographical Area : Mizoram
Special Cover Release Date : 26 November 2021
Cancellation : Aizawl 796 001
Type : GI Tag Cover
Cover Identification Number : NE/10/2021-2022
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Enlarged View of Cancellation
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