Pawndum is an important traditional cloth of the Mizo people. Pawndum literally means ‘black cloth’. (In Mizo language ‘Paun’ means woven cloth from loom, ‘dum’ means black). However, the cloth is not totally black but striped consisting of mostly black and red colour.
Pawndum is rectangular in shape, the length is about 63" and the breadth is about 44" long. Traditional Pawndum was characterized by bold warp stripes of handspun indigo-dyed blue-black cotton and naturally dyed red cotton obtained from barks of different plants such as sentezel (Calophyllum polyanthum),sentelek and khei(Mallotus phillippensis).
The weft in Pawndum has always been black. With the introduction and availability of soap dyes and coloured yarn in the market, more complex and rhythmic stripes of different colours such as blue, green, yellow, pink, and purple were incorporated.
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The black weft against the multicoloured warp gives it a vibrant yet deep effect. Although Pawndum is usually characterized by bold 4-inch stripes of black and red, different sizes and colours of other warp stripes are incorporated depending wholly on the preferences of the weaver.
Pawndum is worn by wrapping it around the waist and covers the lower part of the body down almost to the feet. In earlier times, young men usually used this as a night cover during their stay in the men’s dormitory (Zawlbuk) and were also used as attire while performing ‘Khuallam’, one of the famous traditional dances of the Mizos.
Pawndum always have fringes on both edges lengthwise of about ½" to 1". About an inch from the fringes, a kuthruih design is incorporated throughout the breadth of the puan. This ‘kuthruih’ appears like a simple braid which consist of two colours. On one side, a red and green thread is used whereas a red and black thread is used on the other side.
Pawndum design consists of groups of red, blue, green, yellow, pink and black stripes in a total of six batches. The first and the sixth batch are similar while the remaining four batches are identical. In all the batches, there are 11 alternating stripes.
In the first and sixth batches, the three outermost stripes are green, pink and blue. They are of the same width. This is followed by a yellow stripe. Next, two black stripes flanking a thin pink line follows. Next, we have a yellow stripe followed by a blue stripe. The yellow stripe is followed by a pink stripe and lastly we have a green stripe. The stripes on the cloth follows a certain pattern in such a way that the orientation of the cloth remains the same both ways.
The second, third, fourth and fifth batches are identical stripes. On each batch, there are eleven stripes. In the middle there is a pink stripe which is flanked by two black stripes. Adjacent to both these black stripes is a yellow stripe. Next to these yellow stripes are two blue stripes which is followed by two pink stripes. The outermost stripes on both sides is a green stripe. In between each of the batch is a red band.
A young Mizo woman was required to weave a Pawndum and carry it along to her new home when she got married. If she failed to carry it to the new home, it was considered her prime duty to weave one soon after going to her in-law’s place. Failure to do so was looked upon as highly disgraceful in the Mizo culture.
The Pawndum was to be used as a shroud to cover her dead husband’s body had he died during her lifetime. It could also be used to cover the bodies of any close relative on her husband’s side. Pawndum has a deep cultural significance, even to this day.
GI Tag Registration Date : 06 August 2019
GI Tag Number : 586
Certificate Number : 347
Geographical Area : Mizoram
Special Cover Release Date : 26 November 2021
Cancellation : Aizawl 796 001
Type : GI Tag Cover
Cover Identification Number : NE/11/2021-2022
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