Sunday, August 11, 2024

266. Pochampally Ikat

Pochampally Ikat involves tying and dyeing the threads in a visualized design prior to the weaving of the fabric. The fabric so woven has been used as Sarees for centuries, and is now also used for furnishing, textile and textile goods. Pochampally Ikat originates from the geographical region of Nalgonda and parts of Warangal districts in the state of Telangana.

Pochampally Ikat is visually identified by the 'chowkra' design which is a diamond within a square, or its derivatives, having diffused edges. Pochampally Ikat is made of natural materials such as cotton or silk or a combination of both, having designs that are evocative of the diffused diamond or chowka design. 

Woven in pairs of specified length and is characterized by its bold, diffused and geometrical motifs in red, black & white colours, offset by wide single coloured borders. The diffused edges of the said designs evolved using special skills in visualization of design are again unique to Pochampally Ikat. Along with the traditional diamond motifs, parrot, elephant and flower motifs are also used.

Image credit: rumanajdesigns.com

In principle, Pochampally Ikat or resist dyeing, involves the sequence of typing (or wrapping) and dyeing sections of bundled yarn to a predetermined colour scheme prior to weaving. Thus the dye penetrates into the exposed section, while the tied section remains un-dyed. The patterns formed by this process on the yarn are then woven into fabric. 

There are three basic forms of Pochampally Ikat, namely; 

  • Single Ikat, where either warp or weft threads are tied and dyed prior to weaving. 
  • Combined Ikat, where wrap and weft ikat may co-exist in different parts of a fabric occasionally overlapping. 
  • Double Ikat, which is by far the most complex form. Here both warp and weft threads are tied and dyed with such precision, that when woven threads form both axis, mesh exactly at certain points to form a complete motif or pattern.

Natural fibres such as cotton or silk are spun into yarns which are then tied and dyed with colors according to the pattern visualized by the master weaver. This tied and dyed yarn is then dried and put on looms to be woven into fabrics having designs that have diffused edges.

Traditional dyeing method, which entails the following, processes each of which involves meticulous and precise team work. These processes are : tying of warp threads, and dyeing them as per the visualized pattern loading the loom with the said dyed warp thread, following which, a marker thread is used to mark off the pattern for the tying and dyeing of the weft threads the said dyed weft thread is then reeled and loaded into fly shuttles for weaving the threads to the visualized pattern.

The Pochampally Ikat products are handcrafted to perfection by skilled artisans who are endowed with critical skills in intricate designs, having decades of experience behind them in their respective fields.

GI Tag Registration Date         : 31 December 2004

GI Tag Number                         : 4

Certificate Number                  : 3

Geographical Area                  : Telangana

Special Cover Release Date   : 13 May 2022

Cancellation                             : Pochampally 508 284

Type                                          : GI Tag Cover

Cover Identification Number  : TS/01/2022

Enlarged View of Illustration

Enlarged View of Cancellation

Back Side Scan

India Post has also issued a commemorative postage stamp on Pochampally Ikat. Details of the same are furnished below

Handlooms of India - Geographical Indication Registered Handloom Products 
Issued on 07 August 2018

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