Telia Rumal are woven on pit looms with material made from pure cotton, produced in Puttapaka village of Telangana State. The special characteristics of Telia Rumal designs are that they are hand woven and there are no prints on the handloom materials. Telia Rumal cloth involves a number of intricate handmade work displaying a variety of design and motifs.
The process of creating a Telia Rumal is a very intricate and laborious double Ikat weave. Uniqueness of the dyeing and weaving cluster is based on the usage of the following natural materials viz Natural alizarin dyeing, Sheep dung, Castrol seed pod ash and Gingelly oil.
All the Telia Rumal are in three colours only; White, Black and Red. The process of preparation uses gingelly oil and natural vegetable dye which gives it a distinct and unique quality in the form of its texture and smell. The Telia Rumal technique is in use for all varieties of handloom items like Scarves, Stoles, turbans and lungies.
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Telia Rumals are eminent throughout the world for its elegant design and patterns and for its natural dyeing methods. A classical 19th or early 20th century Telia Rumal is a square cotton cloth dyed in a harmonious colour scheme of deeply saturated red and brownish black with a creamy white background a shade which is the result of the pre-treatment of the cotton yam.
The pattems in the Telia Rumal consist of a variety of images, based around the sub-divisions of a square. These include the dot, square, cross, chevron, rectangle and various stepping motifs. The initial patterns used were strictly geometric but Telia Rumals made after 1930s incorporated figurative designs.
All the designs and motifs are derived from the traditional geometrical pattems which represent flower and leaves, half-moon designs, namely: Maddikaya, Omkaram, Padava, Chandrudu, Hastam, Pachees, Bhucharakam, Swastik, Vimanam, Simham, Chillaka, Gadiyaram, Muggu, Suryudu, Pakshulu and Mallepuwu.
Telia Rumal are meant generally for hot climate. These pure cotton Telia Rumal absorb sweat and is refreshing to wear in coastal areas. The fishermen wear the Telia Rumal lungis as they are dyed with gingelly oil that does not allow the salt to irritate them.
Traditionally, Telia Rumals have been the cloth offered at the dargah of Ajmer Sharif in Rajasthan with some devotees offering fifty or even hundred cloths. Telia Rumals were worn as veil by princesses at the erstwhile court of the Nizam of Hyderabad; as a turban cloth by Arabs in the Middle East; and continue to be worn as a lungi by fishermen in coastal Andhra Pradesh.
The traditional vegetable dyes used in the production of Telia Rumal have huge number of medicinal benefits. Unlike chemical dyes vegetable dyes do not contain carcinogen. After each wash the vegetable dye enables the fabric to retain its colour and not fade. In fact, Telia Rumal becomes brighter after each wash because of the presence of oil in it.
GI Tag Registration Date : 14 September 2021
GI Tag Number : 599
Certificate Number : 369
Geographical Area : Telangana
Special Cover Release Date : 13 May 2022
Cancellation : Puttapakka 508 253
Type : GI Tag Cover
Cover Identification Number : TS/02/2022
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Enlarged View of Cancellation
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