Banaras Zardozi is very unique type of traditional hand Embroidery work since generations in Varanasi and making excellent product with their unique traditional process. A number of variety of work in Zardozi is still going on since generations and transferring in the young generation in a significant manner with the unique features.
Zari is an even thread traditionally made of fine gold or silver used in traditional zardozi work in Varanasi. Zari is woven into fabrics, primarily made of silk, felt or velvet to create intricate patterns. The thread is also used as a raw material for Zardozi embroidery, which is one of the oldest and most beautiful embroidery styles of Varanasi. It is used extensively in precious dresses, different type of badges, Mukut work, traditional motifs, zari garment clothing and home decoration products.
Real zari is made of silver and electroplated with gold, whereas Semi real zari has a composition of copper coated with silver and gold electroplating. Imitation Zari is made of copper electroplated with silver. Real zari is used in costly and exclusive product.
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Zardozi thread was originally made from an alloy of silver and gold. The wire that came out of the furnace, although containing a lot of silver in it, glittered like gold. This flattened wire was then twisted around silk threads to form the spring like Zardozi. Zardozi uses dabka (a spring type of thread), kora, katori, tikena and sitara (sequins) and also glass and plastic beads at times.
The material on which this kind of embroidery is done is usually heavy silk, velvet and satin. The kinds of stitches found are salma-sitara, gijai, badla, katori and seed pearls among others. Banaras Zardozi work on top of Rath, Chhatra, Chawar, Palki, Pankha(hand Fan), Singhashan with religious motifs is also unique feature observed mainly at the time of Kumbh Mela.
Some of the types of Zardozi work are
- Zeelsaz Zardozi – In this work zardoj are using sprinkled thread and very fine zari patta which is made by pure metal Zari.
- Jhool Zardozi – In this Zardozi technique artisans are making the jhool of elephant, chhatra, chawar, singhansan, chhata or umbrella with the use of pure zari thread and after that the artisans decorated it as Pathara.
- Kalabattu – With the use of shining thread and very fine quality of needles, artisans are using makhmal fabric and embossing the various type of figures on it. It is very rare and exclusive work.
- Do rukha ka kam – Under this process, the zardoj are making various type of motifs on the flags (Jhande ka kam)
These days Zardozi is used to make exquisite evening dresses, coats; fashion accessories like purses, handbags, belts, shoes; ceremonial adornments like badges and insignia; furnishing accessories like cushion covers, wall hangings table covers, table linen and even curtains.
GI Tag Registration Date : 14 September 2021
GI Tag Number : 620
Certificate Number : 395
Geographical Area : Uttar Pradesh
Special Cover Release Date : 23 May 2022
Cancellation : Varanasi 221 001
Type : GI Tag Cover
Cover Identification Number : UP/05/2022
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